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Pahoehoe lava can't be simply called "brown." It's espresso and chocolate and burnt sienna and cardamom. And when you first see it nestled against the magnificent blue ocean, you wonder if there can be anything more beautiful.  Pahoehoe...

Every evening on the Big Island's Kohala Coast, the sun melts along the horizon and orange rivulets trickle into deep indigo waters. Stars begin to sparkle in the deepening sky above, catching fire from the molten setting sun. Kohala (Ko-HA-la); the...